Fifty years ago there was a working village in this beautiful sheltered cove north of Las Negras. Behind the beach there is a pretty, land-locked valley with spring water and so the inhabitants could grow their own fruit and veg, keep animals, go fishing and had drinking and irrigation water.
The only way of reaching the outside world was by boat or coastal path, wide enough for nothing larger than a donkey, to Las Negras. When a good road and electricity came to Las Negras the inhabitants deserted San Pedro in favour of the trappings of modern civilisation. When we we first went there in 1987 there where just a few naked hippies squatting in the ruins of the abandoned houses.
This morning we returned to San Pedro. Although there is a boat taxi from Las Negras we walked the coastal path, which takes just over an hour, and enjoyed the spectacular views of the coastline. En route, we saw several examples of an unusual saltwort, its thorny spikes frothing with tiny, sweet-scented flowers. A magnificent osprey soared over the cliffs before gliding out to sea.
Arriving at this idyllic little bay we found it far busier than when we first visited all those years ago. The hippies are still there, and still squatting, but the ruins seem to have acquired solar panels and wind generators. A colourful array of tents and shelters rimmed the beach to accommodate San Pedro’s growing alternative population. There were also many ordinary people just enjoying Sunday on a beautiful beach with a calm, transparent sea.
If you click on the images they will enlarge.